Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 21:01:31 -0500 (EST) From: hlb@wvnvaxa.wvnet.edu To: knitlist@lst.linkline.com Subject: Knit: More patterns Hiya all, ICOSH: Some more freebie patterns [Editor's note: I've split these out into separate files.] [...] ___________________________________________________________________________ Child's waistcoat: (sort of designed for the knitlister who was looking for a pattern :) (Minou Shelton? Is that right?) I am sooo bad with names...sorry. A bit of intro...this pattern is not difficult, but the shaping on the front (it is a cardigan style, not a pullover) is tricky, so I strongly recommend doing the back of the thing first, to get the pattern stitch set in your mind before tackling the fronts. After asking several friends about the unisex applicability of this pattern, I am fairly sure that it would be fine for boy or girl. (I tend not to trust my own judgement on these things, as I think daygowns on baby boys are perfectly adorable). I have found cotton yarn to be not very stretchy, and somewhat fussety to work with, so I forced myself to design this little vest with that in mind. The pattern stitch (layette stitch) is basically a 2x2 rib with eyelets in, and so is reversible and doesn't roll, making it ideal for afghans and scarves too...once you get the pattern in your mind it is mindless knitting, as well... Size: to fit 18 mo Materials: Approximately 200 yds of sport weight cotton yarn...(I had Gloucester sport-w/in 13...110 yd/50 gm laying around...many of the big store brands would do as well). Size 4 US needles Gauge: 26 sts/4"(10 cm), 29 rows/4"(10 cm) Pattern Stitch (layette stitch): multiple of 4 sts Row 1: *K2 P2 rep from * across Row 2: *K2 P1 yo P1 rep from * across Row 3: *K3 P2 rep from * across Row 4: *K2 P3 rep from *across Row 5: *K1 K2 tog P2 rep from * across Row 6: *K1 yo K1 P2 rep from * across Row 7: *K2 P3 rep from * across Row 8: *K3 P2 rep from * across Row 9: *K2 P1 P2 tog rep from * across Row 10: repeat from row _2_ Please note: for the purposes of shaping, IGNORE the extra 'eyelet' stitch. In other words, when the directions say cast off 2 stitches, I mean 2 stitches _not_ including the eyelet stitch. About selvedges...I find in general, that knitting the last stitch on a row and slipping the fist stitch of a row, makes a nice selvedge for picking up stitches later along the edge. BACK OF WAISTCOAT: CO 72 sts. Knit in pattern for 2 3/4", decrease on _each_ side for armholes as follows: 4sts 1 time (at the beginning of each row), 3 sts 1x, 2 st 1x, 1 st 1x. (52 sts). Knit even in pattern for 5 1/2" from start of armhole (8 1/4" from beginning), then decrease for shoulder and neck edges _at the same time_: Shoulder: BO at each outer edge every second row 5 sts 2x, 4 sts 1x. Neck: in same row as first shoulder row, shape neckline: BO center 14 sts, then finish each side separately. Bind off on each neckline edge, after 2 rows, 5 sts one time. FRONT OF WAISTCOAT: CO 2, K 1 Row. CO 2 sts at the beginning of each row for 1 5/8" from first CO row (26 sts-remember to count ONLY ribs, NOT eyelet sts). Inc on _one side only_ 3 sts beginning of each row, on that side, 6 times. (44 sts) (3 1/8" since initial CO). Pattern 3 rows even, making two buttonholes on second row between 1st and 2nd sts, and 13th and 14th sts. After 3rd row, for neckline edge, bind off at the beginning of row, on right side only, 1 st. 17 times, and beginning of every other right side row 1 st. 3 times. At 2 3/4"from last CO on LEFT side (armhole side), bind off for armholes as for back of waistcoat (4 sts 1x, 3 sts 1x, 2 sts 1x, and 1 st. 1 x). Carry on in pattern until 5 1/2" from first armhole decreases and then bind of for shoulder as for back. (5 sts 2x, 4 sts 1x). Make a second front exactly like the first....Aha, you say, reasonably, then I will have two of the same side front with buttonholes in BOTH...that will not do...but here's the tricky part, says I...the stitch is REVERSIBLE :) and when it is all sewn up together, and you know the sex of the recipient, just leave the buttonholes OPEN on the proper side, and sew the buttons over the buttonholes on the other side. Ta da! (DH thinks I am too easily amused, I suspect he is right). FINISHING: Sew up shoulder seams. With right side (RS) facing you, pick up 30 sts along back armhole, and 30 sts along front armhole. 3 rows stockinette st., 1 row reverse stockinette (so the facing will turn along the purl line) and 3 rows stockinette, casting off on the third row. Sew side seams, sew down armhole facings. Front Borders: With right sides toward you, pick up (PU) on left front, starting at the POINT of the 'v', 38 sts along lower left front, 48 along upper left front, 31 along neck edge, 48 along upper right front, and 38 along lower right front, ending at the lower 'v'. (203 sts). 3 rows stockinette, 1 row reverse stockinette, 3 rows stockinette, casting off on 3rd row. Sew down facings. Lower facings:With RS facing you, PU 17 sts on lower edge of left side v, 62 sts along lower side of back, and 17 sts along lower edge of right side 'v'. Knit 3 rows stockinette, 1 row reverse stockinette, 3 rows stockinette, casting off on 3rd row. Sew facings down. Buttons and buttonholes: lap one side over the other. Sew 2 buttons over one side buttonholes. Block. An additional couple notes about this pattern. I am sorry...I shouldn't go on and on, but I just have to point out, that because this is a very compact stitch,it has a LOT of give, which compensates for the lack of spring in the cotton...and consequently means you will get a lot more wear out of the same size than you might expect. Secondly, I have found that if you use sewing thread to sew facings, they lay a LOT flatter and the thread makes the seaming nearly invisible. ____________________________________________________________________________ [...] Regards, Annie hlb@wvnvaxa.wvnet.edu --- This pattern downloaded from Wool Works: the online knitting compendium http://www.woolworks.org/