Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 10:01:56 -0500
From: Kim.Salazar@em.doe.gov
To: Multiple recipients of list <knit@geom.umn.edu>
Subject: KNIT: Large size knits - advice feedback      
     
     TIPS ON DESIGNING LARGE SIZE KNITS FOR MEN - THE FEEDBACK
     
     Thank you to everyone who replied via the list and who sent me 
     personal mail.  Since I get the list in Digest and was absolutely 
     inundated by excellent advice, It's much easier post my reply here 
     rather than write back to everyone individually.  Please do not be 
     offended by my broadcast of my thanks at the expense of personal 
     replies.
     
     Your suggestions were all very valuable.  I recap the major points of 
     feedback, in case others are interested:
     
     1.  An Aran in a very large size will be an very heavy yarn-intense 
     finished garment, and will be extremely warm.  It will also cost a 
     fortune in yarn.
     
        This is exactly what I want.  The recipient is looking for an dense 
     and warm sweater to wear outdoors/indoors through Boston winters, and 
     in an imperfectly heated Victorian house undergoing continual 
     restoration.  
     
        The cost IS something I'm worrying about.  Maybe I will be able to 
     find a source of suitable real wool when the yarn shops have their 
     summer sales.  
     
     2.  Because of the weight of the finished garment and the unflattering 
     lines on most larger body shapes, raglan sleeves are not advised.
     
        Good point.  The weight of the yarn itself would probably distend 
     the shoulders - especially in raglan shaping.  I'm thinking of using a 
     modified saddle shoulder - perhaps reinforcing with a stable lining 
     the uppermost tab section of the sleeves where they join the front and 
     back to make the upper surface of the shoulders.  
     
     3. Whatever ease you usually calculate, double it because of the 
     weight of the yarn and the density of the textured patterns used.  
     Also, many "short in front" problems are caused by insufficient width, 
     and are only exacerbated by insufficient length.
     
        More excellent points.  I will make sure the width is sufficient.  
     My spy (Mrs. Recipient) is sending me a dress shirt she made for the 
     target that fits him smoothly without straining.  I'll scale my 
     measurements up from that.  
     
     4. Use the make-a-muslin method described in the Threads magazine 
     article on large size knitting for women.  Don't make this a surprise 
     gift.  
     
        Good advice for obvious reasons.  I think the dress shirt solution 
     will take care of this problem.  Because I made an Aran for Mrs. 
     Recipient that our target has commented on longingly many, many times, 
     I know that the gift will be appreciated.  
     
     5.  You don't have to make the front and back identical, many 
     traditional Arans feature different patterns on the two sides.
     
        A wonderful idea!  I am one of those knitters who hates doing 
     anything twice.  If I'm knitting flat I work the two fronts of a 
     cardigan, or two sleeves at the same time because I detest doing the 
     second.  I'll keep the same proportions and numbers of pattern panels 
     front and back, but I'll use different cables and whatnot on each 
     side.  I may even do this for the sleeves, but I will use the same 
     featured center panel on both sleeves so they don't look mismatched.  
     The rectangular pieces used in saddle shaping should make this easier. 
     
     6. The depth of the armscye (armhole from shoulder point to underarm 
     seam) should definately be deeper than just scaling up proportionally 
     will allow.  You should taper the sleeves to eliminate bulk from elbow 
     to wrist, but the upper arm set in must be deep enough to keep the 
     sweater from pulling across the chest.
     
        Will do.
     
     7. Books/Articles that will help
     
     "Designing Knitwear" by Deborah Newton, a Threads book (has the 
     Threads article in it)
     
     "The Knitter's Guide to Sweater Design" by Carmen Michelson and 
     Mary-Ann Davis, published by Interweave Press
     
     ...article in Knitters, probably by Medrith Glover
     
     ...Beth Brown-Reinsel's Knitting ganseys book
     
     M. Righetti's "Knitting in Plain English". <-- highly recommended
     
     
     Again, thanks to all.  I get a lot of enjoyment from being a member of 
     the vicarious knitting family here.  I don't know if everyone realizes 
     the depth of experience and expertise jointly possessed in this 
     family, but it is impressive - and best of all, happily shared for 
     love of the craft.
     
     
     Kim Brody Salazar                          kim.salazar@em.doe.gov 
     Seabrook, MD